Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Ryan's visit!!

So, my great friend Ryan from Michigan State is quite the adventurer and ever since I applied he always promised, and I always knew, that he was coming to visit wherever I was headed. Well...after much waiting and lots of vaccinations, he finally made it! He arrived the 12th of February and then our adventures began... Unfortunately right after his arrival we were robbed (the emotional ramifications will no doubt come up in future blogs, but for right now, lets focus on the rest of the trip!). Luckily they just grabbed my phone and a bit of my money and by that time lots of people came running to help us and the guys fled. So, no real harm done, and we headed on to Dogbo the same day.

It was market day when we arrived, so I took him around and made him taste all the delicious snacks and he picked out tissue to have an outfit made. We spent the next few days just hanging out in Dogbo. He was able to come to class and geography club with me. We also had a big dinner with the other Yovos of Dogbo and perhaps one of the biggest highlights was the time we spent with some of my English colleagues. I invited all of them over, but really only my best friends showed up, which I preferred. I had told them before hand, only English!!! So they were so excited and we had a lot of fun just chatting for a bit and talking about the States. Other than that, we mostly just spent the days relaxing and doing what I do, going to the market, going on walks with Jasper, and saying hi to people. Oh! One other huge highlight was the buying, killing, and cooking of chickens for dinner. Ryan really wanted to say he'd killed a chicken for dinner, so I enlisted my student friend Winnie (the girl who watches Jasper) to help us. We went with her to buy the chickens and then we watched as her and her friends killed, cleaned, and cut them up. Ryan wanted to kill one, but at the moment of truth couldn't bring himself to do it, so we just laughed and watched and he took lots of pictures, haha. He was also so so impressed that Winnie is only 14 years old and prepared our entire meal all by herself without her mom around (her mom fries food on the corner nearby every afternoon and evening, so Winnie does the cooking). We had to go home to pack, but returned later to eat the full meal with the family, which was lots of fun and I'm glad I got to spend that time with them. And Ryan got to wear his new tissue (African fabric) suit to dinner!

After our escapades in Dogbo we headed North to Burkina Faso and Mali! Our destination was Dogon Valley in Southern Mali. The Dogon people have lived among the cliffs of the plateau since the 14th century. They used to literally live on the cliffs, but now there are many villages scattered on the desert floor next to them and also on top of the plateau. We went on a trekking trip, which basically means we backpacked our away along the edge of the plateau staying at different villages along the way. We departed for the Dogon region from the town of Bankass by horsecart. After about 2.5 hrs moving through the semi-desert with strong winds, hot hot sun, and sands blowing like crazy we reached a village at the base of the plateau. We had lunch there and then waited out the afternoon heat until about 4 or so. We then climbed up to see ancient ruins of a village that once existed on the cliff side. It's actually a UNESCO site now, so they have paid the villagers to repair many of the huts and graineries to their original condition. While they have repaired the huts, it was still amazing to hear that these mud bricks have been standing for centuries. The cliff hangs over the location of the village, so no rain was able to reach the houses and slowly wash away the mud.

After we climbed back down we trekked on flat sand to the next village and our shelter for the night. They have a developed system of guides and "campements" which are basically little "authentic" hotels. They prepare all your food and you get a little hut for the night. The most awesome part is that you get to sleep on the flat roofs under the stars. The first night on the bottom of the plateau the wind was crazy and we were basically eating sand though, haha, so I had to descend and sleep inside.

The next morning we trekked flat across the sand again and after a 6 hour rest to escape the sun, we climbed up the plateau! It was such an awesome hike and exactly what I had hoped for. The Dogon people have been there so long and are so accustomed to going up and down themselves that they have laid out paths of rocks all the way up. There are some places where you have to climb over crevices in the rock hundreds of feet deep with wooden ladders that they have resting from one side to another. It was intense, but awesome!

Our climb up would definitely be rated as difficult, but once we reached the top of the plateau it was such a different world. In valleys on the top they cultivate lush green gardens with tons of vegetables and herbs. You'll be hiking up all this rock and suddenly come into flat valley and see people watering their plants with calabashes filled with water. It must be tedious work, and they do it twice a day, but seeing how green they were made it seem so worth it.

On our third day we made the hike down and took a horse cart back out into Bankass and from there began our long journey back to Cotonou, Benin. Dogon Valley was absolutely amazing, but unfortunately the 3 days of bush taxi to arrive in Mali and the 3 days back were incredibly exhausting and of course trying at times. Luckily, we met up with some Burkina and Benin PCVs on the way down which made it easier and more enjoyable. It was fun to have more people to talk to, but more people also means more people to fill up a mini bus so we could leave sooner. And since we were on a tight schedule to make Ryan's flight on Saturday night, we couldn't afford to wait another day for any taxi to fill.

Despite some setbacks and annoyances along the way, overall it was a great adventure. I had lots of fun with Ryan and he most definitely got the intense experience he was looking for! haha...I also have returned to Benin much more thankful for many things here. One thing is the existence of taxi motos that are everywhere and can get you somewhere cheap and fast. Ouagadougou (the capital of Burkina Faso) had no such thing and made getting around the city difficult, time consuming, and expensive. Even our inter-city taxi system is much busier and thus I'm not used to waiting 6 hours for a taxi to fill up and go. Another thing to love about Benin is its food! Food up north was much less spicy and street snacks were much more difficult to come by. A bag of water is also half the price here! (not surprising since Mali is practically desert, but still).

I know there are 5,000 more details to give, but unfortunately I've got to be getting back to post. After getting halfway there yesterday afternoon I realized that my keys were in the office and I had to come back :-(. I just want to be with my puppy, but atleast you've all now gotten a few blog updates! Continue reading below to hear about school...

2 comments:

loehrke said...

Sounds like you had a wonderful trip. Every description I've read of Dogon country makes it sound just magical. Ryan is a lucky guy to have experienced it!!!
I'm glad that you just hung out in Dogbo for a few days. What is "normal" to you is very foreign and amazing to most of us!!!
Stay SAFE, Mark Loehrke (Carly's dad)

Emma said...

that visit sounds amazing! i am so jealous ryan got to go, but i don't think i could keep up with all those adventures. wow :)